Tunisian Nine-Patch Dishrag

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A few years ago, I fell hard for Kay Gardiner’s Nine-Patch Dishrag and made one for my dishcloth drawer. Since it has stood The Test of Time so well, I decided to make another.

As I was knitting up a new warshrag, I started wondering what it would look like done in Tunisian crochet. Here is the humble result. I used Tunisian reverse stitch in order to get a more-or-less 1:1 stitch to row ratio; I worked the miters using Tss2tog, Tks, Tss2tog over the center 5 stitches of each row in order to echo the central line in Kay’s miters. (You will have to judge whether this works; I’m not in love with the result. When I make another of these, I will substitute Tss3tog worked over the center 3 stitches of each row.)

As with Kay’s original — and as with all my favorite dishcloth patterns — this is a great use for all those leftover bits of yarn you’ve got hanging around. Keep in mind, though, that because this one uses so many odds and sods, there are a gazillion yarn ends to weave in, too.

(Note: My sneaky ulterior motive in offering this free dishcloth pattern is to whet your appetite for my upcoming Tunisian crochet dishcloth e-book All Washed Up, which will be released later this month.)

Tunisian Nine-Patch Dishrag
Materials: Knit Picks Dishie (100% cotton; light worsted), Honeydew (MC), Aster (CC); 6.0 mm Tunisian crochet hook; 5.0 mm crochet hook (used for bind-off and edging)

Gauge: Let’s not worry about that this time, hmm?

Finished Dimensions: Approx. 10.5 in/26.5 cm square; each block measures approx. 3.25 in/8 cm

Abbreviations: CC contrasting color; MC main color; Tks Tunisian knit stitch; Trs Tunisian reverse stitch; Tss Tunisian simple stitch; Tss2tog Tunisian simple stitch 2 together (decrease)

The center strip of the dishrag is worked first, from the bottom up; blocks 4 and 5 are worked by picking up stitches along the center block. Blocks 6 – 9 are worked by picking up stitches along adjacent squares, along with an extra stitch between the squares.

Blocks 1 – 5 each consist of 12 Trs “ridges.”

Refer to photo for block placement.

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Block 1 (MC)
With MC, ch 12.

Set-up Row: Forward pass: Pull up lp in second ch and each ch across. (12 lps on hook) Return pass: Yo and pull through 1 lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps] across.(1 lp remains on hook after every return pass, which counts as first st of row.)

Rows 1 – 11: Forward pass: 1 Trs in each st across. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] across.

Note: 11 ridges have been completed at the end of row 11. The first row of Block 2 completes the 12th ridge.

Block 2 (CC)
Row 1: Forward pass: Drop MC, insert hook into st as for Trs, pull up CC, 1 Trs in each st across. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] across.

Rows 2 – 11: Forward pass: 1 Trs in each st across. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] across.

Note: 11 ridges have been completed at the end of row 11. The first row of Block 3 completes the 12th ridge.

Block 3 (MC)
Row 1: Forward pass: Drop CC, insert hook into st as for Trs, pull up MC, 1 Trs in each st across. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] across.

Rows 2 – 11: Forward pass: 1 Trs in each st across. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] across.

Note: 11 ridges have been completed at the end of row 11. The bind-off completes the 12th ridge.

Bind-off in Trs: With smaller hook, [insert hook into next st as for Trs, yo, pull through st and lp on hook] across, fasten off.

Block 4 (MC)
Set-up Row: Forward pass: Pick up 1 st in each stitch along one side of Block 2. (12 lps on hook) Return pass: Yo and pull through 1 lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps] across.

Rows 1 – 11: Forward pass: 1 Trs in each st across. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] across.

Bind-off in Trs: With smaller hook, [insert hook into next st as for Trs, yo, pull through st and lp on hook] across, fasten off.

Block 5 (MC)
Set-up Row: Forward pass: Pick up 1 st in each stitch along unworked side of Block 2. (12 lps on hook) Return pass: Yo and pull through 1 lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps] across.

Repeat instructions for Block 4.

Block 6 (CC)
Set-up Row: Forward pass: Pick up 1 st in each stitch along side of Block 4, pick up 1 stitch in corner of Block 2, pick up 1 st in each stitch along side of Block 3. (25 lps on hook) Return pass: Yo and pull through 1 lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps] across.

Note: Use stitch marker if needed to keep track of center stitch.

Row 1: Forward pass: 1 Trs in each st to 2 sts before center st, over next 5 sts (Trs2tog, Tks, Trs2tog), 1 Trs in each st across.. Return pass: Yo, pull through 1 lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] across.

Rep Row 1 until 5 sts remain.

Mitered Bind-Off: Insert hook into next 3 sts as for Tss3tog, yo, pull through sts and lp on hook, insert hook into edge st, pull through st and lp on hook, fasten off.

Blocks 7 – 9 (CC)
Repeat instructions for Block 6.

I finished the cloth by working one round of single crochet, making 3 stitches in each corner and changing colors to match colors of blocks.

Weave in ends and block if desired.

Please keep in mind that this pattern has not been reviewed by my intrepid technical editor, so you may need to rely on your spidey sense to get you out of any jams. Have fun with it — and make sure to post your projects on Ravelry so that everyone can admire them. (I’d love to see how you make this cloth your own.)

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